The Natural Dye Initiative is a collaborative project between the Matilda Flow Inclusion Foundation, MFC Tie-Dye Inc., and the Aftermath Learning Lab to introduce and implement natural dyeing practices and an improved wastewater filtration system at the Foundation. While the project has roots dating back to 2016 and 2018, the primary implementation phase took place over a 12-week period in 2026.
Project Background.
When founding the Matilda Flow Inclusion Foundation in 2016, Matilda Lartey completed several weeks of training in tie-dye and batik dyeing techniques with a local skilled artisan. In collaboration with MFC Tie-Dye Inc., the Foundation then produced pilot collections of organic cotton and upcycled cotton tie-dye products. Tie-dye and batik dying practices have deep cultural roots in Ghana and throughout West Africa. However, in recent decades, there has been a shift away from natural processes traditionally used toward synthetic dyes and imported chemicals.
Our collaboration gradually shifted away from tie-dye to focus on upcycled denim. This decision was partly driven by a desire to avoid any potential environmental and human health impacts that might arise from using synthetic dyes and alkaline chemicals at a larger scale. In 2018, MFC Tie-Dye Inc. began investing resources in piloting natural dye methods at the Foundation. Coffee, turmeric, and madder were tested, but reliable colorfastness was not achieved. The project was put on-hold during the COVID-19 pandemic and due to the collaboration’s transition to upcycling denim.
Exploratory Research in 2018.
In collaboration with students from Dr. Caitrin Lynch’s Dirt to Shirt course at Olin College, we embarked on a number of exploratory research and development projects for MFC Tie-Dye Inc., including research and implementation of natural tie-dye methods. Students met virtually with Matilda Lartey at the Foundation and interviewed her about her needs and priorities in regards to natural dyes. They then spent several weeks researching and prototyping natural dye processes, focusing on three dyes: coffee, turmeric, and madder (test swatches shown in the picture below).
Following this collaboration, Matilda attempted to implement these three dyeing methods at the Foundation. However, the test fabrics showed low colorfastness and did not withstand machine washing. At that time, we determined that we needed additional research and development before implementation was possible. From 2018 onward, the Foundation transitioned to upcycling denim, which reduced use of synthetic dyes and chemicals. As a result, shifting to natural dyes became less of a priority, particularly as we faced other challenges during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Implementation Grant in April 2026.
In April 2026, MFC Tie-Dye Inc. provided the Matilda Flow Inclusion Foundation with an implementation grant to finish our work implementing natural dyes at the Foundation. The project included two challenges: (1) identify, test, and evaluate scouring agents, mordants, natural dyes, and dye processes for their effectiveness, colorfastness, safety, and sustainability and (2) identify, test, and evaluate improved wastewater treatment methods for filtration benefits and operational feasibility. The project co-leads were Julia DeVoy, Matilda Lartey, and Dielle Lundberg with support from project consultant Chrystian Dennis and the Aftermath Learning Lab and its research assistants.
With the Foundation now employing eight to twelve artisans and positioned to produce upcycled products at a larger scale, transitioning to natural dyes could have a meaningful environmental impact and expand the Foundation’s design toolkit beyond upcycling denim. Bedsides the environmental benefits, natural dye adds creative and cultural value to the upcycled products, so making the shift to natural dyes offers both an environmental health benefit and a creative opportunity.
The 12-week project funded by the implementation grant was facilitated via a Design Thinking WhatsApp group where the full team shared ideas, research, and udpates and worked to troubleshoot problems together and through video calls with Matilda every 2-4 weeks. The project ran from May 1 to July 31, 2026. The three main objectives of the implementation grant were as follows:
Objective #1. By the end of the 12-week project, the Foundation will have successfully tested and adopted at least three natural dye colors, each demonstrating consistent colorfastness through at least three wash cycles, and implemented them in the Foundation’s upcycled products.
Objective #2. By the end of the 12-week project, the Foundation will have established a practical improved wastewater treatment process that can be consistently applied to all future dyeing, ensuring reduced environmental impact and operational feasibility for the Foundation.
Objective #3. A detailed case study will be produced documenting methods, results, and lessons learned, including photos and quotes from the Design Thinking Space. These materials will be submitted to a peer-reviewed innovation or design journal and published as an open-access case study.
Project Outcomes in July 2026.
Natural Dyes.
As of July 2026, we were successful in implementing a natural dye process that allows the Foundation to nearly or entirely phase-out synthetic dyes and the harshest alkaline chemicals (e.g., caustic soda) in their dying process. Using books and online resources about natural dyes, the team was able to determine a natural dye process that addressed the issues related to colorfastness that had previously hindered the project. The Foundation was able to pilot a full range of colors: coffee (light brown), hibiscus leaf (grey or purple), sorghum (salmon or red), turmeric (golden-yellow), and henna (light yellow) and continues to experiment with cassava leaf (green) and indigo (blue). The fabrics were tested for lightfastness (fading in light) and wash fastness (machine washing). While there is some minor fading that is expected with natural dyes, fabrics retained at least 60-80% of their color, which was our benchmark. Lastly, the Foundation was able to implement the naturally dyed fabrics as fabrics liners in its upcycled denim products, replacing nearly all the limited amount of synthetic dying it was still doing for these fabric liners.
Improved Wastewater filtration.
As of July 2026, we were successful in designing and implementing a practical improved wastewater filtration system at the Foundation. The system consists of two components: (1) two filtration drums containing layers of gravel, fine sand, cotton, and coconut charcoal, and (2) a garden bed planted with grasses that is plastic-lined to prevent wastewater from seeping into the surrounding soil. The treated wastewater is reused for irrigating the grasses. Prior to discharge into the garden bed, the treated wastewater undergoes a visual assessment for color reduction and is tested for pH to verify that it is within the acceptable range of 6.5 to 8.5, ensuring its suitability for irrigation.
Case Study.
A research assistant from the Aftermath Learning Lab has started preparing a case study about the project, which we plan to submit to an open-access, peer-reviewed journal by the end of 2026.
Project Follow-Up.
Between October and December 2026, the team will conduct a follow-up assessment to verify that the natural dyeing process and wastewater filtration system continue to meet the Foundation’s needs. The team will assess the extent to which natural dyes are being used, determine whether synthetic dyes have been substantially or fully phased out, and identify any emerging needs or challenges related to the project.
Learn More.
Follow @matildaflowghana and @makefashionclean on Instagram to see more from this initiative.